The author describes how, after moving to New Jersey at the age of twelve, he returned to Calcutta to work for an English language newspaper, where he encountered a chaotic, living city unchanged by time.

Midlife crisis -- Umbrella Park -- Flat hunt -- Nimtala -- Flyover -- College Street -- Victoria -- The epic city -- Crossing the canal -- After the factory -- Chitpur nights -- Sealdah -- Russian dolls -- This little corner -- The fortress of triumph.